{"id":2206473,"date":"2024-09-13T18:17:56","date_gmt":"2024-09-13T09:17:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/koreapro.org\/?p=2206473"},"modified":"2024-09-16T18:18:33","modified_gmt":"2024-09-16T09:18:33","slug":"in-south-korea-shark-meat-is-tradition-but-the-oceans-cant-keep-up","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/koreapro.org\/2024\/09\/in-south-korea-shark-meat-is-tradition-but-the-oceans-cant-keep-up\/","title":{"rendered":"In South Korea, shark meat is tradition \u2014 but the oceans can\u2019t keep up"},"content":{"rendered":"

The aroma of grilled fish and savory pancakes wafts through a crowded market in South Korea\u2019s southeast, where vendors call out prices and customers weave through the narrow aisles. Amid the mackerel and octopus lie slabs of dombaegi \u2014 shark meat.<\/span><\/p>\n

In the coastal Gyeongsang Province, dombaegi remains a beloved regional delicacy as families across South Korea prepare for chuseok, the country\u2019s mid-autumn harvest festival. During this time, families gather to honor their ancestors with special foods and rituals.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

But the cultural significance of dombaegi now clashes with a troubling reality: the global decline of shark populations.<\/span><\/p>\n

Last week, <\/span>Korea Pro<\/span><\/i> uncovered the sale of several endangered shark species at the Jukdo market in Pohang, a port city where the delicacy holds particular popularity. This discovery exposes the tension between preserving cultural heritage and protecting marine ecosystems. But it also hints at a potentially thriving black market for shark meat.<\/span><\/p>\n

TRADITION VS CONSERVATION<\/b><\/p>\n

South Korea\u2019s shark meat tradition stretches back centuries. Archaeological findings suggest the practice <\/span>dates<\/span><\/a> to the Three Kingdoms Period (57 BCE to 668 CE). Some families <\/span>believe<\/span><\/a> offering dombaegi during ancestral rites (charye) brings powerful blessings to future generations.<\/span><\/p>\n

But the culinary tradition now faces a global ecological crisis. \u201cSharks are under threat like never before,\u201d Brendon Sing, director of Shark Guardian, a shark conservation charity, told <\/span>Korea Pro<\/span><\/i>. Sing noted that 37% of shark species are on the brink of extinction.<\/span><\/p>\n

In South Korea, however, shark conservation laws lag behind the crisis. Doohyun Park of the nonprofit Ocean Outcomes told <\/span>Korea Pro<\/span><\/i> that out of 49 shark species observed in ROK waters, \u201c57% of them have international conservation status.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Yet, the country\u2019s Fisheries Resources Management Act <\/span>protects<\/span><\/a> only two of the dozens of shark species the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) lists as endangered: the scalloped hammerhead and the whale shark. Enforcement of even these limited protections appears lax.<\/span><\/p>\n

In contrast, the U.S. government <\/span>prohibits<\/span><\/a> fishermen from possessing or retaining in \u201cany form\u201d twenty shark species, including the dusky shark \u2014 a species <\/span>Korea Pro<\/span><\/i> likely observed for sale at Jukdo market last week.<\/span><\/p>\n

At one shop at the Jukdo market, six large sharks lay piled on an outdoor platform. The vendor skilfully dissected their carcasses with a handsaw, later cutting the pieces into neat, rectangular chunks of pink meat.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cThese sharks belong to the genus <\/span>Carcharhinus<\/span><\/i>,\u201d Keiichi Sato, director general of the Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium, one of the world\u2019s largest aquariums, told <\/span>Korea Pro <\/span><\/i>after examining photos of the animals.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cAlthough it is not possible to identify them accurately from the photos, they appear to be large species, such as <\/span>Carcharhinus obscurus<\/span><\/i>, or dusky shark.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

The IUCN\u2019s Red List of Threatened Species classifies most <\/span>Carcharhinus<\/span><\/i> subspecies, including dusky sharks, as endangered.<\/span><\/p>\n

Sato noted that <\/span>international trade of <\/span>Carcharhinus<\/span><\/i> is restricted under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, to which South Korea is a party.<\/span> But within its own economic zone, however, South Korea continues to permit the catching and selling of these sharks.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

A vendor skins a shark, which one expert identified as a threatened Carcharhinus species, at Jukdo market in Pohang, Sept. 2024 | Image: Korea Pro<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

LAX ENFORCEMENT AND OVERSIGHT<\/b><\/p>\n

But even sharks that South Korea classifies as protected were on sale at Jukdo market last week. Sing of Shark Guardian identified one of the sharks that <\/span>Korea Pro<\/span><\/i> saw as a scalloped hammerhead shark \u2014 one of two species that Seoul\u2019s fisheries law has designated as protected.<\/span><\/p>\n

Sharks that are prohibited from being caught may only be sold if they have been deemed as accidental bycatch by authorities, Park of Ocean Outcomes explained. But the hammerhead sharks on sale at Jukdo market appear not to have been on the radar of authorities at all.<\/span><\/p>\n

Korea Pro<\/span><\/i> asked the Jukdo market about the sale of illegal and endangered sharks. In response, the market referred to Pohang\u2019s Fisheries Cooperative, which handles the auction of \u201call the fish at our market,\u201d an employee said.<\/span><\/p>\n

However, the Fisheries Cooperative denied auctioning any hammerhead sharks recently and couldn\u2019t explain their presence in the market.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cWe\u2019ve only seen blue sharks come in lately,\u201d a sales department representative told <\/span>Korea Pro<\/span><\/i>. The cooperative claimed it doesn\u2019t handle endangered species and discourages fishermen from bringing them in. Notably, they seemed unaware that blue sharks are also endangered.<\/span><\/p>\n

The Fisheries Cooperative manages South Korean fishing ports, conducts official seafood auctions and bears responsibility for monitoring illegal catches. The dissonance between official oversight and market realities suggests sharks may be entering markets through unofficial channels, pointing to the existence of a black market.<\/span><\/p>\n

This unofficial trade in threatened sharks has another consequence: it distorts catch statistics. While official South Korean government data <\/span>reports<\/span><\/a> that fishermen hauled in 209 tons of sharks in 2023, this figure excludes those caught in international water catches or those traded through unofficial channels.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

A vendor dissects a shark, which one expert identified as a threatened Carcharhinus species, at Jukdo market in Pohang, Sept. 2024 | Image: Korea Pro<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

GLOBAL IMPLICATIONS<\/b><\/p>\n

The Yoon Suk-yeol administration has <\/span>vouched<\/span><\/a> to implement measures to protect marine biodiversity by expanding the list of protected species. However, experts say that sharks face a race against time.<\/span><\/p>\n

South Korea\u2019s lax laws and weak enforcement create ripple effects far beyond its borders, they warn.<\/span><\/p>\n

Shark Guardian, an action group, <\/span>emphasizes<\/span><\/a> sharks\u2019 critical role in maintaining marine ecosystems. As apex predators, sharks regulate populations of other species in the food chain, and their population decline threatens to destabilize entire ecosystems, from coral reefs to fisheries.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cUrgent action is needed to protect these incredible animals,\u201d Sing of Shark Guardian told <\/span>Korea Pro<\/span><\/i>, highlighting their vital role in maintaining ocean health.<\/span><\/p>\n

Leonardo Guida, a shark scientist and conservation lead at the Australian Marine Conservation Society, provided stark context: \u201cIndustrialized fishing has driven a 70% decline in oceanic shark species in just the last 50 years.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cThreatened species do not recognize international borders, so it\u2019s incredibly important countries work together and help rebuild their populations.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Improved protection for sharks in South Korea is especially urgent. \u201cWarmer ocean temperature due to climate change is driving many shark species into new waters, such as those of South Korea,\u201d expert Park said.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cSharks can be sustainably managed if science-based management measures are in place, but Korea is not there yet. More can be done at the national levels to improve shark sustainability like precautionary measures to minimize shark bycatch and improve shark post-release survival rate.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

But for now, tradition continues to overshadow ecological concerns in South Korea\u2019s Jukdo market.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIn Pohang, most people eat it grilled,\u201d a vendor told <\/span>Korea Pro<\/span><\/i>. \u201cIt\u2019s delicious.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Joon Ha Park Contributed reporting to this article. Edited by John Lee<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

\"\"

A vendor filleting mackerel at Jukdo market in Pohang, Sept. 2024 | Image: Korea Pro<\/p><\/div>\n

Culture & Society<\/span><\/a><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The aroma of grilled fish and savory pancakes wafts through a crowded market in South Korea\u2019s southeast, where vendors call out prices and customers weave through the narrow aisles. Amid the mackerel and octopus lie slabs of dombaegi \u2014 shark meat. In the coastal Gyeongsang Province, dombaegi remains a beloved regional delicacy as families across […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10407,"featured_media":2206474,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[36],"tags":[25],"class_list":["post-2206473","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-feature","tag-culture-society"],"yoast_head":"\nIn South Korea, shark meat is tradition \u2014 but the oceans can\u2019t keep up - KOREA PRO<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/koreapro.org\/2024\/09\/in-south-korea-shark-meat-is-tradition-but-the-oceans-cant-keep-up\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"In South Korea, shark meat is tradition \u2014 but the oceans can\u2019t keep up - KOREA PRO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The aroma of grilled fish and savory pancakes wafts through a crowded market in South Korea\u2019s southeast, where vendors call out prices and customers weave through the narrow aisles. 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